Mugler’s Creative Director on Inspired Designs for Beyonce’s Renaissance – The Hollywood Reporter

Casey Cadwallader is known as the fifth designer to take the creative director’s helm at Mugler since its eponymous founder retired from fashion in 2002. That’s thanks to them,” says Cadwallader, who brings buzz to the storied French fashion house and dresses stars such as Beyoncé, Cardi B, Megan Thee Stallion and Kim Kardashian. “[Manfred Thierry Mugler] Provocative and bold and exciting and makes people feel sexy and chic and like they’re being watched. It’s very different from other houses and that’s why I want to take it so seriously, because I want that torch to burn brightly.

Manfred Thierry Mugler, who founded the house in 1973, has played a role in defining 1990s fashion like few others since 1993. Indecent proposal The dress — worn by Demi Moore, which spawned millions of copies — for George Michael’s 1992 “Too Funky” video, starring a cadre of supermodels including Linda Evangelista and Tyra Banks. Mugler, whose designs fuse sexuality and empowerment, died unexpectedly of natural causes in January at the age of 73. “It was a surprise, no question; I was looking forward to hanging out with him a little more,” says Cadwallader. “Now I feel this responsibility to keep his work alive, but it’s a weight I wear with pride.”

Cadwallader, 43, says he discovered things about himself after becoming creative director of the house in 2018. “Casey at Mugler is not Casey himself,” he says. “Fortunately I love the codes of this house, and you really have to educate yourself and get to know the archive. Maybe I’m a little less S&M than he is — and then I look at some of the things I do and think, ‘Maybe not.'”

Clarins Fragrance Group President, Mugler Fashion and Fragrance Sandrine Groslier, Cardi B and Mugler Creative Director Casey Cadwallader attend the “Thierry Mugler : Couturissime” photocall

Richard Board/WireImage

Cadwalader’s process begins with what he defines as “the Mugler silhouette: big shoulder, scooped waist and curvy hip. Each season offers its variations, which are important. The house doesn’t conform to the traditional fashion calendar, so the latest see-now-buy-now collection, Spring/Summer 2022, premieres in June.” Showcased and accentuated by pieces like jackets with razor-sharp shoulders, body-con dresses, and arrest-inspired bodysuits filled with straps.

Megan Thee Stallion attends the 2022 Billboard Music Awards at MGM Grand Garden Arena on May 15, 2022 in Las Vegas, Nevada.

Brian Steffy/Getty Images

The collection premiered with a star-studded video, including Megan Thee Stallion, Bella Hadid, Amber Valletta, Shalom Harlow and Chloë Sevigny. (Cadwallader designed one of the three dresses Sevigny wore for her May wedding.) Other recent projects include performance looks for Cardi B and Dua Lipa: “Musicians are a big part of what we do,” says Cadwallader.

Mugler’s pale pink wool blazer, which tapers into a bodysuit; $1,328, mytheresa.com

Mytheresa

Another musician who called earlier this year: Beyoncé, who requested a custom design to wear for her latest album, Renaissance; Promotions for the album, including a teaser for the “I’m That Girl” video, featured Cadwallader’s gathered dress with an integrated metal bustier (inspired by Thierry Mugler’s famous robot look). “That was a wonderful piece, because I was ready to take the Mugler robot to start approaching that part of the archive. Beyoncé was very responsive to that, so we worked around that idea and made different proposals,” says Cadwallader. “A lot of my luck and success at Mugler is down to these special relationships. have arrived.”

Expansion is also given high priority. “There’s more going on now than we’ve ever had, and I think it’s a sign that Mugler is really going somewhere new,” says Cadwallader. “We’re launching a lot of new product categories soon, a lot of new babies ready to show the world.”

Is he nervous? “It’s good to be scared,” he says. “Muggler is very much about taking risks and putting yourself out there.”

Dua Lipa, wearing Mugler, performs during Day 2 of the Lollapalooza Festival at Grant Park on July 29, 2022 in Chicago, Illinois.

Michael Hickey/Getty Images

A version of this story first appeared in the Sept. 16 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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